Kitchen hand, Tashkent, Uzbekistan
Fujifilm X-H2, XF56mmF1.2 R WR, f1.2 @ 1/640 second, IS 125

Sometimes as travel photographers, we have to accept that some subjects can be difficult, especially when they are alive and looking back at you, perhaps asking questions and gesticulating angrily!

It can depend on the country and its people. For instance, I find Bhutan incredibly relaxed and easy to take portraits in. Bolivia, on the other hand, is not so easy and I’ve been told in no uncertain terms not to take people’s portraits. As guests in another land, we should tread carefully and respect the locals, so I never force the issue.

I also think about how I would respond if I were asked by a tourist to pose for a photo. Even when I’m the tourist overseas and a local asks to take my photo, I hesitate. Of course my answer is yes, how could I respond otherwise, but we need to acknowledge that not everyone likes to have their portrait taken, no matter how interesting we think they are.

This is one of the reasons frequenting tourist haunts can be useful. Sure, we might not get the remote, unique, authentic experience, but the locals are still authentic and usually more approachable. And if you’re in a situation where there are lots of tourists and it’s the locals’ job to be nice to us, we’re more likely to get a good portrait.

The photograph of the kitchen hand in Uzbekistan is shot in a famous ‘plov’ or pilaf restaurant and guests (both local and foreign) are invited to walk around the kitchen, watching and photographing the staff while they work. In this particular photograph, the kitchen hand was desensitised to my presence with his own thoughts and so I was able to shoot a series of candid expressions, without too much fear of being called out!

Whether you’re travelling with a photo group or on your own, you’ll often be in situations like this when portraiture is possible. Of course, no matter how you look at travel portraits, if you give your subjects a little time and friendship first, the resulting photographs will generally be much stronger.